I love
Dorian & Dahl Apothecary’s perfume and lipstick and am excited to share with you my reviews of their newly reformulated Signature Scents, Dorian and Dahl.
If you
missed my previous review of Dorian + Dahl’s perfume oils, you may find it here.
I also recently posted a review of one of Dorian + Dahl’s Twisted Lipsticks.
Two important notes:
If you
purchased either the Dorian Signature Scent perfume oil or the Dahl Signature
Scent perfume oil in 2012, the two Dorian + Dahl Signature Scent perfume oils I’m
reviewing today, Dorian and Dahl, are reformulated as of January 2013 and are entirely new scents. Dorian + Dahl has created the new formulations with essential fragrance oils and are both are nitro musk-free
and phthalate-free.
Another
important note is that perfume oils do not contain any
alcohol. Perfumer’s alcohol is used in perfumes (e.g., commercial fragrances
a/k/a “department store fragrances”) not only to “fix” a scent to the skin, but
to ensure a high level of scent- consistency among those wearing it. Perfume
oils, having no such fixative, are more dynamic in nature, working with each individual’s
distinct skin chemistry to create uniquely personal sensual experiences. While
a particular note or bouquet of notes may have distinct aromatic
characteristics on my skin, those same notes may smell entirely different on
your skin. Please keep this in mind as you read my reviews—my experience with
Dorian and Dahl will not necessarily be your experience.
Dorian
was the first of the two reformulated Signature Scent perfume oils I wore. Here
is Dorian’s description:
“Dorian is too cool for school
in her leather and studs... but damned if you aren't still interested. She's
mysteriously seductive with a whole lot of attitude.
Sweet honey floats a top exotic cinnamon leaf and
irresistible ylang ylang while powdery sweet bois de rose oil emerges from soft
peach and fresh cut lilacs, ending with a seductive ripe cherries and warm
indian sandalwood base.
Spicy and sweet scent that is bold and alluring.”
Tl;dr summary of my review of the
new Dorian:
Dorian is an exquisite example of aromatic synergy from exotic beginning to
end.
When I
first apply Dorian, it has a warm, sweet fragrance as the cherry note blossoms
on my skin over a layer of mesmerizingly exotic sandalwood drizzled with newly-harvested
honey. Initially, I was a bit wary of the cherry note, as that particular note
tends to turn artificial with my skin chemistry, like the scent of cherry cough
syrup. However, Dorian’s cherry note does not morph into a medicinal scent at all
on me; neither does it smell like a fresh, ripe cherry. Rather, it reminds me
of the scent of a freshly-opened can of cherry pie filling–naturally sweet and juicy,
but neither sugary nor jam-like. It blends beautifully with the distinctly
woody sandalwood, but far from masculine. Rather, it’s warm, and the honey note
provides an almost-vanillic effect. Since
I love a good sandalwood, it has an almost opiate-like effect on me; each time I
catch a waft of it, I can’t help but close my eyes, breathe deeply, and feel
myself sinking a little deeper into calm and relaxation.
During
the dry-down phase, the juiciness of the cherry steps into the background,
allowing the spiciness of the cinnamon leaf to peek through, bringing a rich
spiciness to the scent. This is not a red hots candy type of cinnamon scent. It’s
earthy and subdued, blending impeccably with the sandalwood and the trace of
cherry that is left on my skin. The scent of the sandalwood, fruit, and spice whisk
me back in time to a day many years ago when I wandered through a Middle
Eastern bazaar and was overwhelmed—in the best way!—by the exciting cacophony
of new textures, color patterns, sounds, and aromas.
The
other notes in this blend—the ylang ylang, rosewood, peach, and lilac—never take
center stage; yet throughout the wear time, I will occasionally recognize one
or another here and there, as it rises and then falls, almost as if the aroma
is breathing in synch with me. While not the foci of the scent, these
supporting notes clearly reinforce the overall experience of the fragrance, the
way a perfect harmonization enhances a melody.
The
scent lasts for several hours on me, and I find the sillage to be moderate; it neither
precedes me before I enter a room, nor does it leave a lingering trail behind
me. Dorian sticks rather close to my skin, but I do catch the occasional veil
of fragrance lightly wafting about me when I least expect it.
Dahl
was the second of the two reformulated Signature Scent perfume oils I wore. Here
is Dahl’s description:
“Dahl is lovely and demure in
her pink and peach chiffon... but don't let that fool you. Her bright embrace
comes with a daring edge.
Tart blood orange and uplifting pink grapefruit
sparkle over radiant neroli blossom, delicate muguet de bois, alluring magnolia
and vivacious roses while soft frankincense reveals a creamy amber resin base
with a hint of white musk.
Powdery, feminine scent that's delicately
seductive.”
Tl;dr summary of my review of the
new Dahl: Dahl
is a delicate floriental fragrance that is pleasant and alluring even for those
who have reason to be wary of floral scents.
My
initial reaction to the scent description for Dahl was, “Oooh! Blood orange, grapefruit,
roses, frankincense, and amber? OH, YES! PLEASE!!! ….but, uh-oh, neroli, lily,
and magnolia? YIKES!!! TAKE COVER!!! RUN FOR THE HILLS!!!”
I have
found over the years that while I love certain floral and floriental
fragrances, there are some floral notes that I simply can’t abide, and three of
the floral notes that I find the most offense are in Dahl: neroli (which, to put
it plainly, just plain stinks),
muguet de bois (also known as lily-of-the-valley, and which, while one of the
daintiest and beautiful flowers, I find to be nausea-inducingly cloying), and magnolia (while
one of the things I miss the most about living in the Deep South is the beautiful
magnolia trees, the perfume note is so rich and heady that I can’t bear to wear
it on my skin). However, in the name of responsible beauty-blogging and the ever-optimistic hope that “maybe this one will be
different,” I forged ahead with Dahl and dabbed a tiny bit of it on my forearm, in a
place where I knew I could easily scrub off the scent if I found the scent dreadful
enough to want to run away from myself.
Dahl
opens with the bright and sweet scent of orange, slightly tart grapefruit, and dry
and husky frankincense. Within a couple of minutes, the frankincense softens
and recedes into the background as the scent of neroli begins to blossom. I’m
hesitant about the scent, because it’s so distinct and familiar…yet oddly, it does
not morph into the stink-bomb that I’ve become so accustomed to from neroli. As
I’m contemplating this new encounter with a neroli I may actually like (!!!), the rose begins to peek
through and soon becomes the dominant scent in the blend. As the rose blooms on
my skin, I notice the brightness of the citrus notes has faded, but their
sweetness remains. It’s also at about
this point in the wear-time that I can detect the resinous warmth of golden
amber beautifully supporting the bouquet of roses. The scent remains in this
stage for several hours – I actually can’t identify the scent of either the
muguet de bois or the magnolia, and certainly don’t feel the need to run for
the hills!
After
about three or four hours, I notice that the neroli has completely faded away,
and the muguet de bois and magnolia have finally decided to step forward for a
little attention. Once again, I find myself in a state of wonder over these
notes, which have historically ranked quite high on my “least favorite notes”
list, yet in this particular fragrance, they are not offense, cloying, or
heady. The lily and the magnolia are astonishingly soft, delicate, and pretty. I
can almost feel the world stop turning for a moment as I realize that I
actually find them ironically appealing.
What magical potion is this that contains the essences of three of my greatest olfactory
nemeses—neroli, lily-of-the-valley, and magnolia—and bundles them in a way that
I can not only bear one or tolerate two, but actually enjoy all three?
At this
point, the scent does not change again. The florals remain as feminine and
delicate as hand-sewn French lace, and the resins continue to provide an
unobtrusive base for the florals. (As a brief aside, I never do smell the white
musk. I’ve never been able to smell white musk. I’ve applied white musk single
notes to my skin and to my peculiar nose, white musk smells exactly like…well…nothing.) The scent wafts gently about
me, and there is absolutely nothing untoward about this floriental fragrance.
Dahl is as graceful and demure as a southern belle at her debutante ball.
While
the scent fades with time, I can still clearly identify the fragrance on my
skin 12 hours after first application, although there is only minimal sillage
at this point. I have very dry skin and
live in an arid climate, so I find that most fragrances dissipate within two to
four hours, and it’s uncommon for me to wear a scent that lasts as many as six hours.
The distinct scent of Dahl on my skin 12 hours after application indicates its exceptionally
rare staying power.
Overall impression of Dorian and
Dahl: Simply
put, they are stunners. Dorian is impeccably blended and the rich, spicy
woodiness is exotic and mesmerizing. Dahl pulled the carpet out from under my
feet and completely subverted all of my notions toward certain florals that I’ve
come to despise. I am still a bit bewildered that Dahl smells so lovely on me!
Erin of Dorian + Dahl has a knack for knowing which notes will work well
together and complement each other throughout the scent’s various phases. I rate them a 5 out of 5 stars.
Where Do I Buy Dorian and Dahl?
Dorian
and Dahl signature fragrances are available at their Etsy shop and Storenvy shop.
How Are Dorian and Dahl
Packaged and What Do They Cost?
Each Dorian + Dahl
Signature Blend perfume oil is sold in a 5ml roll on bottle and costs $8.00
(U.S.)
You may also
purchase a set of two 1ml sample vials of Dorian and Dahl at Dorian + Dahl’s
Storenvy shop.
The price is $3.50.
What Is In Dorian and Dahl?
All
of the ingredients are listed on each product listing.
Why Don’t I See Any of Dorian + Dahl’s Other
Scents for Sale?
What Else Should I Know About Dorian + Dahl
Apothecary?
Dorian + Dahl Apothecary does not repackage or rename perfume oil blends; each
blend is original and handcrafted. Erin, the owner of Dorian + Dahl, handcrafted
each scent formula to create a unique scent experience. Follow the shop’s blog for updates on Dorian + Dahl.
* Product sent for consideration. All opinions are my own.
